Luciano's does wings. Luciano's does pizza. And that's pretty much all Luciano's does. At any rate, that's all that matters to anyone who cares about the archetypal flavors of Buffalo, where pizza and wings are the alpha and omega.

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Kris Ferreri grew up in Buffalo, cut his teeth on the two-note cuisine that made Buffalo famous. Chicken wings and pizza, pizza and chicken wings -- that's really all Buffalo has besides the Bills. And now we have the wings and pizza.

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Some people (and you know who you are) seem to think that I do not love the food being done at Luciano's Pizza and Wings. Yes, I have compared the pizzas there with the pizzas I remember from "Pizza Thursday" back in high school. Yes, I have stated that the best thing about the wings is the smell of them sizzling inside a to-go container in the passenger seat of my car. Yes, I have said many, many things about Luciano's that might have led someone who didn't grow up in upstate New York to think that I'm not crazy about the place.

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he Buffalo-born owner perfectly replicates the best known dish from northwestern New York. The big wings are fried long enough to crisp up before being dipped in Frank’s Red Hot sauce and served tongue-singeing hot with cooling, thick blue cheese dip and celery. Once you try Luciano’s version you’ll have a hard time accepting the imitators.

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